Lost in the Maritimes

Jun2009

This month I traveled eastward with my spouse. It was a great time of the year to visit Prince Edward Island, “Home of Anne of Green Gables.” Deciding to go before the high season, we found empty beaches, and low season prices. If you decide to do the same (you’ll have to wait until next year, since high season starts at the end of June), here are some things to remember when in PEI:

• Lodgings will be very affordable. We stayed at a great bed and breakfast in Cavendish, one of the most popular spots in PEI, for CAD$50 a night. It’s nice when breakfast is included, and we were a 30 second walk from the beach.
• People, especially at any restaurant or tourist attraction, will have more time to chat and give you directions, advice on places to visit, or just to talk about what life is like on the Island. They’re much too busy when dozens or hundreds of other tourists are waiting behind you.
• Beaches and National or provincial parks, of which there are many, will be virtually deserted. In high season, you’ll have to cram in like sardines with the other visitors.
• Even though it’s black fly and mosquito season in Ontario and other parts of more central North America, the cool, continuous breeze in PEI means that there aren’t that many bugs.

But,

• The water will be a little cold, especially on the north shore.
• Many of the attractions will have reduced hours (some might be closed). For example, a number of the businesses running roller-coasters or fun fairs were closed except for special occasions.
• Some key eateries (e.g. the Oyster Barn in Malpeque) will be closed before July 1st. Luckily, you can go to any one of the many harbours and buy oysters, lobsters or other seafood directly from the fishermen (it’s worth noting that PEI has always had two separate seafood fishing seasons. I was told by the locals that the north side gets the period just before high season, and the south side gets the period just after low season).

In short, the conditions were perfect for us, since our main purpose was a brief escape from the city, to go for walks, see the ocean, and have some great seafood. You  can drive from one end of the island to the other in under 3.5 hours, so once we were there, getting around was calm and relaxing – almost too much so. We’ll have to go back again to see some of the parks and smaller islands that we missed during this trip. When we do return, it will likely be at the same time of year. It’s nice to feel like you’re the first person to step onto a beach.